WHO: Jason Wu RTW
WHERE : New York Fashion Week
WHEN : 11th of Feb 2011
I haven't really written anything about Wu before. His label doesn't seem to cater to my tastes. I find his clothing quite ladylike and very controlled. So controlled that style.com described his collection as lacking in sex! Which can be a good thing as there seems to be a little too much sex on the runways at the moment. However, letting loose can be a good thing!
This idea of letting loose is why the above picture with the leg flash appealed to me. It makes me think of the Lanvin dresses from SS11 which featured tight bodies which descended into flowing billowing skirts. I am loving the controlled nature of the top and skirt with the dirty little leg flash. It's the only thing which makes me believe that Style.com were wrong in their assessment of the collection. But they did describe it as 'a hit'. Something I find a little bit......something.
The problem I find with the collection is that I find that all the pieces remind me of something else. I know, I know who am I to judge? But this is purely my opinion, nothing more! Each piece reminded me of something that has gone before it. There is very little originality in fashion anymore. However the pieces should be inspired by a collection from other season or designer, not take directly. The feathered pieces seem straight out of Chanel, the detailed pieces remind me of Christopher Kane and the long maxi skirts from Lanvin. Hmmm.....not sure!
Either way, I am LOVING the dotted tights. I wore a pair of white ones last night and have a pair of black ones to wear tomorrow for my next fantastic interning day! So make sure to catch the next installment of the intern diaries! Which details my experience of trying to do a live show! Should be interesting!
Anyway, back to the collection. Feathers are always a wonderful catwalk choice. They move and photograph just like a dream. McQueen used them in their last collection as did Chanel. However the practicality of them is a different story all together. The collection seems very day to night. Presenting a vision of a woman who kills in the boardroom then carries on into the night with a selection of amazing nightwear. The lace veils seem set to carry lace into the next season as one of the biggest trends to watch. Very sexy and a great alternative to all the fishnet veils inspired by burlesque /1920's.
The midnight blue flash brings me back to my last point about being reminded of previous collections. Which is something I am sure a designer doesn't want to happen, that you watch his collection and are reminded of other designers. While midnight blue is always a striking color and pops next to a selection of black pieces, it is a little Mulberry SS11. Although it is nice to see the impossible to layer bubble skirt making an appearance on the catwalk again. ( try layering a nice coat over it and see how difficult it is!) but it does have the added advantage of giving the impression of very thin thighs. Which is always good! Especially to those of us (myself included) with ahem, thigh issues! I am liking the longer length in the skirt. Which is something we saw a lot of last winter with the return of mid length skirts. So not so far removed from A/W10.
I am delighted to see the high collar return. I LOVE this look. It's so simple but yet sexy. Another flash of the sex which style.com thinks is lacking. I guess it's what you find sexy. It is controlled though. Presenting a woman who is graceful, yet fashion forward. Very ladylike and very easy to wear. Although I am hating that skirt. With a passion.
The ever classic cigarette trouser is dotted throughout the collection. It has inspired me to find the perfect pair myself. A fantastic move away from the 1970's inspired flares of SS11 brought to the catwalks by Marc Jacobs! Such a timeless and effortless piece. It makes me think of a young Audrey Hepburn in funny face! Team with loafers or ballet slippers for day and heels for night. With the change of a shoe and a top these trousers can move from day to night without fuss. Bringing back the classic basic styles which fashion seems to be promoting since last A/W. In which Chloe presented THE item of the last season : the simple camel coat. And who can forget Jil Sander's presentation of the simple white T-shirt in SS11. Ordinary items which are overlooked by the complicated fetish-istic styles of previous collections. We are moving back to a simple line, cut and color.
Hence : The tux. Again a wonderful item presented here throughout the collection. Teamed with the cigarette pants.
KEY TRENDS FOR A/W :
the high collar
MARKS OUT OF TEN : 7